Wednesday, April 1, 2026

Travelling in a bubble


Am just concluding my second visit to Bhutan, as part of a motorbiking group. 

Imagine a country with a land area of 38000 square kilometres with a population of just 800000. My suburb in Bangalore has more people! 
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Bhutan shares borders with West Bengal and Assam in the south and Tibet in the north. Historically, they have never been colonised, and have always been isolated. Buddhism came in sometime in the eighth century and spread all over Bhutan. 

The entire country is mountains, part of the Himalayan range. There are monasteries all over, with the iconic Tigers Nest being the most famous. 

Sandwiched between two giants, India on one side and China on the other, here lies a quaint, isolated bubble of a country, somewhat like a real life museum. 

They never encouraged too much contact with the outside world. Even TV was "allowed" to enter the country sometime in the 1970s. 

Historically, for several centuries, power was divided between the king and the monks. It became a kingdom in 1907 with the Wangchuk dynasty installing themselves as hereditary kings. In the nineteen seventies it became a constitutional monarchy, with the King as head of state and a Prime Minister and elected Council of Ministers. 

The King has a semi divine status. The country is quite prosperous, with agriculture, tourism, and inward remittances - one in ten Bhutanese have settled abroad. 

Touring around the country is like visiting a well preserved National Park, largely untouched by outside influences, with people living in a time warp. The culture and practices are quaint and simple, as you would expect from centuries of isolation in such forbidding terrain. 

They are fiercely protective of their culture, including their dance forms and national dress. It is mandatory for all citizens to wear their national dress on most occasions, including government employees at work. 

It appears like the king runs a welfare state, with basic necessities being provided for. Education and medicine are totally free. During covid, citizens got a special monthly dole. 

The roads are excellent, and basic Indian food is available everywhere. In the last few years, tourism has been severely restricted - Indians pay 1200 per day of stay in the country, foreigners pay hundred dollars a day. A guide to accompany every group, including a group of one, is mandatory. Minimum grade of stay is three star hotels. Bringing in two wheelers or cars from India will cost more in daily fees than renting them here, and the rentals are not cheap.  

Which is an attempt to preserve the bubble in this mad mad world. Don't know how long it can last, but then it has lasted for centuries. 

It is very difficult to find places in the world today which are largely uncorrupted by outside influences. The people are gentle, simple and nice. 

Travelling around the country is like going on a highly curated conducted tour. 

It is a must visit, for all these reasons. Something you need to add to your bucket list, if you have not already been here.



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